What do budgies eat

SO WHAT DO THEY EAT? THIS IS ONLY BASIC INFORMATION FROM RESERCH I HAVE DONE AND LEARNED FROM OTHER BIRD OWNERS.

Budgies are omnivores. This means they can digest both vegetables and insects. In their natural habitat in Australia, they have a varied diet of grass seeds, leafs, insects and so on. They sometimes fly miles and miles to feed themselves. Of course, for a domesticated bird, this isn't an option. But still it's important to keep them fit and healthy, while still staying as close as possible to their natural diet. A tamed budgie, much like its counterpart in the wild, is very curious and will try anything it's offered. Therefore, it's up to you, the owner, to offer the little bird a healthy and balanced meal.

hear Is Bella enjoying a scrummy fly :)

Note: Budgies eat insects and so qualify as omnivores, but do not offer them a steak or other slice of meat. They cannot digest this. The same goes for milk.

1. The Basics

Seeds or Pellets?
Like all birds, budgies love to eat seeds. As this is absolutely necessary in their diet, a good and quality mixture of living seeds is crucial.
Often the budgie will choose the fattest seeds as the yummiest, and so the healthiest seeds are left behind! If this is the case with you, don't refill the bowl until it's almost completely empty. Don't be fooled though: the empty husks of the seeds are often dropped into the bowl, so take a good look to make sure there's still something edible in there.
An alternative would be to limit the access to the food to set hours in the morning and evening. In the beginning, this will take some adjusting from your budgie, but soon he'll learn to adapt and eat as much of the food as possible, as he's learned it's not freely available. This will result in all seeds being devoured, not just the tastiest.
You could also choose to offer your budgie pellets. These are about the size of seeds, composed of compressed seeds and fruit. This is often the most complete food you will be able to give the bird, and it's also not able to select the tastiest seeds. However, not all budgies like to eat pellets. There is usually a schedule on the package to convert your budgie, but keep in mind that some birds never make the switch. Of course, you still need to provide fresh drinking water, grit and fruit&vegetables to your bird.

Fruits & Vegetables

A healthy addition to any bird diet, fruits and vegetables help ensure long and healthy lives. Give your budgie a piece every day, preferably as fresh as possible.
Every budgie has its own favourites and will need some time to get used to this new form of food. Offering a piece every day at the same place in the cage will help the bird identify it as food, rather than a toy to tear apart. Being the curious little thing that it is, eventually the bird will take a nibble and so be introduced to the wonderful flavour's of fruit or vegetables. Of course, it's always possible they just really don't like the taste of what you offered, so try to put some variation in what you offer. It will help if the bird sees you or its own kind enjoying the healthy snack, This will again stimulate their curiosity and will teach them it's a delicious form of food.
Many budgies prefer the taste of apples, carrots, or oranges. Bananas, pears, lettuce, ... all are loved. Do not offer too much lettuce though, as that might cause diarrhoea.

Hear they are enjoying some mango

Bella & Bert love a verity of fruit and veg, I would say their favourites are:

Broccoli

Kale

Boiled egg

Mango

Cucumber

Carrots

Red pepper

Mixed berries

Apple (seedless)

There is still more fruit and veg I want to try with them.

Warning! Rhubarb and avocado are poisonous to budgies! Avoid the cabbage family.

Eggfood

While many bird owners only offer this at times when the bird is breeding or growing new feathers, it's not a bad idea to provide eggfood at least once a week. It's packed with minerals and nutrients. To offer a complete and balanced diet, eggfood really should be on the menu.
Eggfood is healthy, easy to digest and delicious. It not only strengthens the bones (a calcium bomb), it gives extra strength and vitality and stimulates growth. It's an excellent dish to serve a mother budgie and her youngsters.

hear is Bella enjoying hard boiled egg with egg shell with carrots and broccoli

Eggfood, while very good for your budgie, contains a lot of fat. Twice a week at most when not breeding or sick really is enough. However, when your birds are sick or breeding, always have eggfood readily available. Put the dry eggfood in a feeding bowl, add some water to moisturize it, stir and offer. It's not supposed to float, just a bit of water is plenty. Don't leave it in the cage for too long as it will quickly grow a lot of bacteria and spoil.

EGG BISCUITS
Egg Biscuits are highly nutritious and extremely tasty complementary pet food for all cage and aviary birds.
Egg Biscuits are highly recommended during moulting and breeding periods.

Bella & Bert where terrified of these to being with which is a normal reaction to be wiry of new things, after a while they became use to it and now love egg biscuit.

*no birds are harmed in the making of egg biscuits*  

2. What Else?
Millet

A veritable delight to any budgie's taste buds. Almost without exception, budgies are extremely fond of this treat, and it's the ultimate assistant when trying to tame a new bird. It's also easy to digest! Thus millet is also often used to teach a young budgie to eat seeds, or to encourage a sick budgie to eat a bit.
Millet is high in fats and should only be offered once a week, at a quantity of half a string per bird. While millet is no replacement for a good seed mixture, it is to be preferred over candy sticks for birds.

Bella & Bert enjoying their treat

Candy sticks

Who doesn't know them: the seeds glued together with honey in the form of a long stick. Budgies love them. Naturally: it tastes very sweet! Almost every store has it on offer. It's yummy and very popular. However, there is a lot of sugar in candy sticks, so don't offer it too often. It should be more of an exception rather than a frequent snack.

3. What Definitely Not To Feed A Budgie

Some things, a budgie really cannot eat, ever. Either it's really unhealthy or hard to digest, or it's just plain poison!
Although sometimes it can be very tempting, it's best not to allow your budgie to eat food that's on your plate. People food tends to be very bad for the tiny kidneys of a budgerigar, and is often simply poisonous. Avoid salt (bad for kidneys) and sugar (causes infections, obesity and a whole host of problems).
Absolutely forbidden because it's lethal to a budgie: avocado, tobacco, rhubarb, chocolate, coffee, cola *anything fizzy a No No* and alcohol.
Disinfectants also contains alcohol: avoid using!

*tobacco and alcohol I cant see anyone being stupid enough to give this to their bird, but in this day in age noting  surprises me *

4. How Much Do They Need?

If you only have 1 budgie, buy smaller bags to ensure the seeds are still fresh when you offer them to the bird. The nutrients are at their peak, and there's a smaller chance of bacteria or funghi being in it. A normal budgie needs about 2 overflowing tablespoons of seeds per day.
If you have multiple budgies, always have some extra bags ready. You'll be all out before you know it! Keep an eye on the date label on the package.

5. Conclusion

Budgies can eat a lot, but not everything. Quality and freshness should be valued over price: it can determine how long your budgie will live, and in what condition it will spend its life. Avoid sugar and salt, and never ever feed them an item from the poisonous list. Your budgie will thank you, and reward you with a playful friend that has a long and healthy life.

BUDGIE SEXING

THIS HAS TO BE ONE OF MY FAVOURTIE TOPICS

BUDGIE SEXING!!

Most bird species are not sexually dimorph. This means that you can't tell what gender it is, simply by looking at it. Luckily, we're talking budgies here! Although it can be difficult for beginners and non-bird owners to tell the gender of a budgie, with a few simple tips, you'll be able to determine if your bird is a Tweeter or a Tweetine (Dear Lord, please don't actually use those names...!).

males:

so as your budgie starts to mature, After a couple of months, the budgie's cere will change colour, indicating that it's maturing (but not fertile yet!). So purple/pink turns to dark blue when it's a male.

But what about a female?

Females are the cause of the most confusion. People with male budgies seldom wind up really being unsure as to the gender. But females sometimes have blue in their ceres too YES BLUE!!, and that's mostly where the confusion sets in.

Females usually begin with a very light blue cere, sometimes it's almost white. If your bird is very young, you should be able to see very clear white rings around the nostrils. Not all hens have this though, so don't let that make or break your decision. As she ages, her cere will turn to a darker light blue. Sometimes she'll still have the white nostrils. Sometimes, her cere will turn a shade of pink. If she's feeling like breeding, it'll be brown and crusty. It could be beige. But it will never be dark blue!

IS IT A BOY OR A GIRL ?

In the picture above is my Bella, now your probably thinking hold on the bird has a blue cere!!

now this young lady has caused a rather stir on Instagram, with people clamming my bird is male, well she is 100% female, despite this people still feel the need to tell my bird is male.

 now Bella has a light blue cere with white around her nostrils and white border.

BELLA & BERT LKE TO WEAR MATCHING OUTFITS EVERYDAY ALL DAY :)

  

This hear is my Bert, hear you can see a lovely dark blue covering the whole of his cere with no hint of white,  handsome boy.

HOW TO TELL THE GENDER OF YOUR BUDGIE! I'm sharing @reggie_the_budgie post as there are still so many people getting it wrong ‼️

Please read: SEXING BUDGIES!! Many people out there are getting it completely wrong and subsequently making fools of themselves. You cannot always trust your pet shop/breeder!
The top two rows are male budgies; ranging from pink, to purple and through to royal blue. Males start pink and as they mature they turn purple and then blue. Notice they are all even in colour. BUT some males remain pink if they are a specific feather mutation, for example pieds and lutino's. But just remember PINK = BOY.

Bella is featured in this chart in the female section she is in the second row from the bottom, in the two middle ones.

The bottom two rows are all females; ranging from very light blue to brown. Females have light blue ceres with defined WHITE nostrils, sometimes displaying completely white/crème ceres. FEMALES CAN BE BLUE!!!!! The blue of a female is very very different to the blue of a male, it is paler, less evenly distributed and accompanied by white, so don't confuse the two! As females mature they turn brown and the ceres get lumpier. Notice that on the females there is no pink. Females will only be pink when they are very very young, and even then they tend to show the characteristic white around the nostrils. Some people are seeing very pale colourless ceres and confusing this with no gender - it's female! They won't suddenly become male.
Please stop making it difficult or thinking that pink is female and blue is male, budgies don't follow our gender stereotypes at all!

Disclaimer: obviously there are some budgies out there who don't want to follow the rules, but they are few and far between, and often poorly.

I would like to give credit to @reggie_the_budgie for this amazing information

 on sexing your budgie correctly, go check out their account too! 

The most telling of all...

If your budgie lays eggs, you can be pretty sure it's a female.

So To Summarize...

colour of cere

dark blue = male

any other colour = female

still in Doubt = probably female

WING CLIPPING!!!

Hear I want to speak about wing clipping.

should I clip my budgies wings?

Wing clipping could be labelled one of the most controversial subjects in aviculture. There are many reasons why some bird owners choose to clip their bird's wings, and just as many reasons why some bird owners do not. While wing clipping is generally recommended for most captive birds, the decision to trim a bird is one best left to the individual owner.

    
I am not being snooty when I say this because some of my friends do this and everyone has their own opinion. But I will give you pros and cons for both sides....

Clipped Winged Budgies

Pros:
Cannot Fly Around Uncontrollably (Pro or Con)

Cons:
Gives the bird no exercise
Gives the bird a higher risk of becoming severely injured due to thinking it CAN fly when it can't

Non-Clipped Winged Budgies~

Pros:
Can Give The Bird a Chance to escape danger
Let's the bird have its exercise
There is No Chance of Accidentally Cracking The Blood Vessel Wing

Cons:
Birds can Fly Around (Con or Pro)

My opinion:
Birds are birds! They should have the freedom to fly! I am a very opinionated person so of course I'm not forcing you to take my advice, but I am just making it clear.
Birds are meant to FLY! Why take that wonderful privileged away from a poor fellow?

To Answer Your Question:
Clipping your budgies' wings will NOT help training.
If the bird keeps trying to fly around when you are trying to teach it to "step up" or some other training method , then that is NORMAL!
At that point EVERYONE THINKS THEY SHOULD CLIP THEIR BIRDS WINGS. But the few people who truly do it either crack their poor birdie's blood vessel wing or just don't enjoy having a nonflying bird around.

So my opinion? DO NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT clip the budgie's wings , EVER! Please!!

I would like to address that Bella and Bert have bin clipped this was done with out me knowing, I was devastated that this had happened to them, their wings are now growing back in nicely and will stay this way.  

nothing more heart breaking than seeing your birds like this, especially when someone goes behind your back and clip their wings. 

Another reason that many pet birds have their wings clipped is because it forces the bird to be more dependent on its owner. Many believe that this can serve to enhance the bird/human bond, although there are countless flighted pet birds that enjoy close relationships with their human families.

personally I think wing clipping is totally wrong and is never something I would do to my birds.

Be very careful when clipping, not to trim a blood feather, a feather that is still growing and receiving a blood supply from the body. You can recognize a blood feather by the blood in the shaft. If cut they will bleed and can become an emergency situation.

IF YOU CONSIDER CLIPPING WINGS!!

Your vet will clip your bird's wings. If you wish to learn how to do it yourself, then ask your vet or an experienced person to show you how.

I've seen to many images, especially on Instagram where owners have clipped birds wings their self's, and they look like they have bin butchered its not a great look, so please if you wish to clip then I advise you see a professional.  

PLEASE DO NOT DO THIS YOUR SELF!!

budgie baths

Budgie baths.

How often should a budgie take a bath ? This is one to the questions each bird owner one day will try to find an answer for. But in fact, there is no universally valid reply to this question. Every budgie is different in its needs and preferences, and in fact budgies who are kept as pet birds don't need to clean their plumage with water to keep it in a good condition, Perhaps your budgie likes the traditional way of bathing in a plastic bird bath that can be hung into the cage opening. Or maybe your bird doesn't like to take a bath at all. It's your turn to find out what your little friend really wants. And you should know that there are several kinds of ways for taking a bath for a bird like a budgie.

Please bear in mind some birds don't bath for up to a year, so don't worry if they won't bath, you can introduce them slowly but never ever force it upon them, veggie baths are a big hit with Bella & Bert especially a kale bath, it's very amusing to watch, Bert loves to be sprayed too not so much Bella as she just dose a runner every time.

Some of our feathers friends love to roll themselves through wet lettuce leaves or herbs such as basil or parsley. The birds make somersaults and you will find them weirdly wrenched from time to time during the "bath". Wet tufts are great fun for many budgies as well. In their natural habitat, in the morning the birds move through tufts that are still wet from dew. This is how most wild budgies take a bath .

Hear is Bella & Bert enjoying a kale Bath.

 Next, you can see a budgie who loves to share their bath with his human friend. Rocker perched on the plastic bird bath and wanted his owner to splash. He then fluffed up his feathers and started to take his very special "shower". In the photo, his friend Eddie is sceptically watching this scene.

Now let's tell the whole truth: There is a huge disadvantage for you if your bird likes to take a bath in a big bowl or something similar in your living room: Your budgies won't even waste a single thought about what else will be wet after they have finished their wild "pool party". But hay who cares it's fun to see your little friend having a great time, an enthusiastic bath can just seem like the famous ballet "Swan Lake".


 bath beneath a running water tap seems to be heaven to some birds. Tame budgies sit on their keeper's hand and splash under the soft  water jet. In this case, a bird will also not give a hoot about anything getting wet around him. You will surely be hit by a lot of splashes while your bird is floundering about in the water. Please make sure that the water jet is not too strong, and that the temperature is moderate. And keep in mind that birds don't like you move too much, some birds get nervous then.

Last but not least I would like to introduce the "raindrop-method" to you. My Bert is really crazy about taking a shower like that. I take a bottle that is normally used for spraying water on plants (a mist sprayer). It is necessary to make sure that there are big drops coming out of it. If one produces fine mist, the birds breathe in the tiny drops and sneeze very often, which they really don't like at all as you can imagine. By producing bigger drops, you just make it rain for your birds. In a bath room, it does not matter how wild the budgies flap with their wings during showering. My little Bert  loves those showers and he does not stop splashing before he is dripping wet.

Blood feathers

Lets talk about blood feathers aka pin feathers.

What are blood feathers?

Blood feathers, also called "pin feathers," are new feathers that are starting to grow. Since they are actively growing, they need a large blood supply and will bleed if broken, hence the name. Each blood feather grows from a special area in the skin called a follicle. The feather has an artery and vein that extend up into it from the follicle and nourish the feather. Due to the colour of the blood supply, the shaft of a blood feather will appear dark, where as the shaft of an older feather will be white. A blood feather has a larger quill (calamus) than a mature feather. A blood feather starts out with a waxy keratin sheath that protects it while it grows. When the feather is mature, the blood supply will recede and the waxy sheath will be removed by the bird.

Blood feathers appear during the moulting process as old feathers are lost and replaced by new ones. Wing and tail feathers, especially, are lost and replaced in a staggered manner during the moult so the bird will still be able to fly.

Reason for me covering blood features.
At the time this happened I only had one bird Bella, I came home from work one night very late **11.30pm**, I came in and checked on Bella, I noticed there was blood all underneath her tail feathers on her perch and on the paper at the bottom of her home.
I was really puzzled I couldn't figure out what on earth had happened to her I thought she maybe caught her self on a toy or got stuck some how in her cage, I just couldn't think what it was, I mean I only had Bella not even a week and my bird was bleeding, I checked her out and it seemed to have stopped bleeding, so I got some warm water, cotton wool and some ear buds, I slowly started to clean the blood of her feathers, she was very good to allow me to do this for her considering I only had her a week, I didn't have to touch her with my hands, she just sat there with this very sorry look on her face, that night I did researcher to try and find out what was going on, I looked up blood on feathers I mean I had no Idea what to put, and what popped up blood feathers, it really did shock me especially the images, I read the advice given, but I didn't need to use this as Bella had stopped bleeding, I sat up the whole night with her to ensure she was okay, it wasn't till the morning I found this feather laying at the bottom of her cage, thankfully she recovered with no problems.
In the morning I also messaged a couple of people on Instagram for advice one being Reggie's mum she was brilliant help.

Okay so this is a picture of Bella's tail blood feather, it's not the most attractive thing to see, but this is what it looks like, at the bottom is the feather its self you will notice the red bit at the top that's where the blood supply would go, the casing a round the feather is called a sheath that covers the feather, if you roll this between your fingers it will break up, so as the feather grows it has a blood supply up the middle, slowly the feather 'dies' and opens up. 

What should be done if a blood feather starts to bleed?

On  occasion, a blood feather will break and start to bleed, or it may accidentally be cut when the wings are trimmed. In a healthy bird, a broken blood feather is usually not a life-threatening emergency if appropriate steps are taken. Even if the bleeding stops quickly, however, you may wish to have your bird examined by a veterinarian, and have the broken blood feather removed. Even if the blood has clotted, broken blood feathers are often removed so they cannot be re-injured  and consequently bleed. If a broken blood feather is removed, a new one will start to grow.
If a blood feather is repeatedly injured, continues to bleed, or the bird has a medical condition, such as liver disease which can affect the clotting ability of the blood, a significant amount of blood may be lost. This is an emergency situation, and action must be taken quickly.

If there is bleeding from a blood feather:

Restrain the bird.

Apply pressure to the broken shaft with gauze or a cotton ball. Cornstarch can be applied with a cotton ball to help the blood to clot.
If the feather broke off below the skin line, the feather cannot be totally removed, or pressure has not stopped the bleeding, the bird should be immediately examined by a veterinarian.
If the feather continues to bleed, it will need to be removed. If you have not done this before, I would advise you to go straight to you vet veterinarian who can remove this for you.

Okay….. When the bleeding has stopped, return the bird to his cage, keep him quite, and monitor him for bleeding for an hour.
Please keep a very close eye on your bird, a lot of blood loss can seriously lead to serve consequences for your feathered friend **Death** pains me to say that but they don't have a massive blood supply.
Also consult your veterinarian immediately if your bird appears weak or there is excessive blood loss.

I hope this information can be of use to you someday it's only basic information as I'm still reserching on blood feathers, the different areas it can happen on a bird I know there is much more to cover, this is based on my experience with a blood feather and reserch.

Scaly face (Bird mites)

Bird mites.

So hear I want to cover bird mites, and the importance of looking out for the signs that your feathered friend may have mites, I have done a lot of research into this after Bella having a mild case of mites, I was totally unaware she had this until a couple of our followers pointed this out to me, I was so grateful they did, I acted quick and treated her and Bert straight away that very day.

Okay so hear we go.
Budgies and many other bird species can be struck by one group of parasites that feeds on dead skin cells: the burrowing mites (Knemidokoptes ssp.). There are two major varieties that affect different body areas. In budgies, mostly the head is affected (especially the beak, the cere, and the eyelids). Also the legs and feet can be affected and in severe cases the area around the bird's vent.

Scaly face mites (or burrowing mites)
Scaly face is a term used for an infestation of burrowing or scaly face mites (Knemidokoptes pilae). The females of this mite species are round-shaped and measure about 0.4 millimetre x 0.3 millimetre. Like scaly leg mites, they are invisible to the naked eye. Unlike scaly leg mites, however, Knemidokoptes pilae affect not only the legs but also the beak, the eyes and the area around the vent. In budgerigars, Knemidokoptes pilae affects chiefly the beak. In most cases, an infestation originates there and spreads to the legs and the area around the vent later on.

Symptoms of an infestation of Knemidokoptes pilae
If an infestation of Knemidokoptes pilae has occurred, the bird affected will experience severe itching if the mites are not limited to the upper mandible. In the initial stage, an infestation with burrowing mites is hardly visible and hardly affects the general condition of the diseased bird. There are initially crusty plaques in the corners of the beak and on the beak itself.
The mites spread from bird to bird through close contact, burrowing into the beak and under the scales of the legs to feed on keratin. These tunnelling mites leave behind a thick, scaly, crusty residue in their wake – the classic signs of Scaly Face.

Things to look out for:
In its early stages, Scaly Face usually appears as a white or grey powdery crust, most commonly on the bird’s beak. In severe cases and if left untreated, the beak, legs and feet can become grossly malformed.
Here’s a young budgie displaying early signs of Scaly Face this is my Bella.

Name and synonyms for scaly face mite infestations

If a bird carries mites of the Knemidokoptes pilae species on its body, one generally refers to scaly face. Some sources refer to the disease as burrowing mites. Yet all names refer to the same parasite infestation. Caution: If only the legs of a bird are affected by mites, it could be either caused by Knemidokoptes pilae or Knemidokoptes mutans!

Transmission 
Burrowing mites are transmitted mainly in the nest box during feeding; i.e. during direct body contact from parents unto the chicks. A transmission between adult birds has also been observed, although this rarely happens. Thus special attention should be paid in pairs of birds and flocks if an infection with burrowing mites has occurred! A couple of years can pass between the time of infection and the appearance of first symptoms. In most cases, however, a mite infestation in a budgie occurs between its 6th and 12th month of life; thus often shortly after the bird has been bought.

All the above is research I have done online

Treatment for mild cases:
For Bella & Bert I used Anti-parasite spot on for small birds **beaphar** as Bella only has a very mild case of Scaly face.

Product information:
Anti- parasite contains ivermectin (10ug per pipettes), and is suitable for use on birds weighing 20-
50g. It is effective against roundworms, feather lice, red (blood) mites, feather mites, air sac mites
and mange mites (scaly face) for up to 4 weeks after treatment.
Do not use on birds weighing less than 20g (eg small finches).

How to Use
Twist off the cap and apply entire contents of the pipette to the base of the feathers, on the bird`s neck.
While squeezing out the contents, spread the solution over as great a surface of the skin as possible.
Apply one pipette per bird. The pack contains 2 treatments. Treatment can be repeated after 4 weeks.
Use only on birds weighing 20-50g. For cage and aviary birds weighing more than 50g, use Anti-Parasite Medium or Large.
Do not use on other species of animals.
Do not use on sick or convalescing birds.
If signs of disease persist or appear following treatment consult a veterinary surgeon.

This is Bella after her treatment you can really see the difference between the before and after photos, looking at the before photo really makes me sad that this happened to her, but it can happen to any bird not just Bella, I was so grateful it was pointed out to me otherwise I wouldn't have known, her after picture is just perfect now we treated her for scaly face, so please just keep an eye out on early  symptoms  I was very lucky.

 Vitamin A and scaly face 

Vitamin A deficiency is thought to predispose birds to the Scaly Face mite. Vitamin A lifts resistance to infection and some parasites, yet seed diets are low in this essential vitamin. Used in moderation, supplements may be useful (but be careful not to overdose). Some vitamin A rich foods that are safe to feed your budgies include carrot, sweet potato, rock melon, chickweed, butternut pumpkin, and peas.

Please if your bird has a more serve case of birds mites take them to a VET!!  Even if it's mild get
them checked out, don't do what I did and just treat them unfortunately I was very lucky and Bella face cleared up with in two weeks by the 4th week it had cleared up.
Also remember if you have more than one budgie the whole flock has to be treated not just the one bird that is infected, all toys, perches will need to be cleaned in very hot water/ boiled to kill off any potential mites still roaming around, also their cage will need to thoroughly sanitised with the correct product and rinsed off.

I hope this post will be off help to others who are dealing with scaly face, I am not an expert this is
what I have learned from lots of research & other bird owners, please remember it can be really bad left untreated. I'm not the perfect budgie owner, I learn new things everyday & do my best for Bella & Bert

DONT LET THIS BE YOUR BIRD!!!!! Image I found on google images.

Thinking off getting a budgie

 Things you will need to consider when homing your feathered friend. 


Budgies are ideal birds for those who have not yet had a pet.

They are playful, intelligent and easy to maintain **if kept right** budgies have a feeding regimen based on vegetarian food, They need space to fly freely.

If you decide to buy a budgie, you need to know some extremely valuable things about them, this information will make your communication with your budgie easier and helps understand he or she better.

First buy necessary things like: 

• Cage **home**
• Food, water containers or bottle
• cuttlefish bone / mineral block
• perches, rope, natural wood
• Toys, play gym and swings

Your budgie is naturally acrobatic and playful, therefore they are going to need a lot of room to hop from perch to perch, swing, bonk there toys and fly a bit, for the perches, you'll need quite a few to keep your friend entertained, your cage needs to be big enough that there toys, perches and food dishes are spaced far enough apart that your feathered friend can still do everything without pooping all over there belongings.

There should be several diameters of perches available, but the diameter should be large enough so that the bird's toes are unable to overlap or completely wrap around the perch. Flight cages and aviaries should be equipped with perches at each end with open space in the middle for flight.

Figuring it all out:

your budgies cage needs to be big enough that your little guy can spread his wings out completely with out hitting the sides of the cage and toys, this is the absolute minimum width and length, if you have more than one budgie in the cage, you'll need to make sure each bird can do this without hitting the walls of the cage and toys or each other.

it is illegal to house a pet bird in a cage that does not permit it to spread its wings. Wingspans of common pet birds range from approximately 30 cm (12 in) for a budgie. 

The standard minimum cage size recommended by professionals is :

12 by 18 by 18 inches for a single budgie And for two budgies, 39 by 20 by 32 inches is a recommended size. 

The bars of the cage should be horizontal and spaced no more than 1/2 inch apart, wider than this and your little friend could get stuck trying to escape. 

Considerations 

In general, you should buy the biggest, safest cage you can afford. Budgies need both vertical height and width for hopping and moving around easily, don't go with the first cage you see at the pet store or online, even if it states its "everything" your bird needs. Unfortunately, many of these cages are much too small to house your bird and everything it needs to be happy and heathy.

Bella & Bert’s Home 

Rainforest San Luis Black Budgie Finch Canary Cage      

Size

Depth 37cm

Height 69cm

What to expect:

2 x Perches

2 x Feeder bowls

1 x Door to allow easy access to the cage

1 x Plastic tray making the cage easier to clean and maintain

1 x Wire grill

1 x Wire roof with handle

This cage **home** is the Perfect size for Bella & Bert there is plenty of space for them to move around in, to climb up and down and also spread their wings when having a good old stretch.

The feeders are good they come with little hoods to prevent poop going in their food bowl, I did use one feeder for water but it wasn't working for Bella & Bert as they would  literally poop in there 

water, so I changed it back to a feeder container so they had one each, I don't have anything negative 

to say about this cage it's just perfect, it's not too pricey and comes with the basic items.

Let's talk about round bird cages!!.

Question: Are Round Cages Really Bad for Birds?

Yes they are!! As pretty as they are, Round cages are not recommended for most bird species, for a variety of reasons, First and foremost, round cages are dangerous for its inhabitant. If you look at the top of a round cage you will see the bars come to gather to the centre point of the top of the cage with the bar space gradually getting smaller and smaller until it meets the centre point, Any animal in a round cage could very easily get a toe, beak, tail or an entire foot or ankle caught in that smaller space and be helpless to free itself. This is a very real danger in and of itself and you really don’t need any  another reason to reject this type of cage. But there are more reasons than just this danger of the V-shaped construction at the top.

Most of the round cages on the market have poor welding and are shoddy in their construction. It is also very uncommon to find a stainless steel cage that is round. Stainless steel is the way to go when purchasing a cage, They are usually sturdy and of good quality. They last forever, they don’t rust and they are safe for your birds. They are easy to clean and maintain and if you shop carefully, you can find one that is a design that  pleases both you and your bird. Stainless steel is an extremely neutral material that pretty much goes with any colour schemes or décor you might have in your home.

They Aren't Recommended By The Industry

It is thought by some people that round cages are detrimental to a parrot's psychological health. The thinking is that birds are very intelligent creatures and some birds have driven themselves crazy climbing around and around cylindrical cages, and feeling like they're never getting anywhere. They believe that giving a bird an angular cage provides them with reference points to different locations in their territories -- thus helping them feel confident, safe, and secure. They also feel that the best set up for a cage is where there is a wall behind the cage so that the bird knows nothing is coming toward him from behind. This provides the security of safety and privacy at least from that one side of her cage. 

They Are Awkward For Companion Birds

Another reason to avoid round cages is because they are often awkward living spaces for a bird to inhabit. They very way that they are shaped causes a bird's feathers to be in constant contact with the cage bars, wearing them down and giving the bird a ragged appearance. Most around cages available are simply not built very big and with pet birds, the bigger the better. There are octagonal outdoor aviaries in places, but you rarely see round outdoor enclosures.  

 Accessories Aren't Designed To Fit Them

While round cages can often be difficult to maintain and keep clean there is another reason to avoid them. Because most bird cages are now square or rectangular in shape, it can be hard to find certain accessories that will fit round cages. Cuttlebones on metal clips, millet spray clips, removable food bowl holders and some toys with double clips or those that are screwed into place between the bars are made to fit in square or rectangular cages where the bars are equidistant to each other for the entire length of the bars. A square cage gives you more options to accessorise your cage with perches, toys, platforms, bowls and all of the other accessories you can get to keep your parrot busy and occupied. These toys and accessories are an important part of your bird’s life and they are necessary. And if you can’t fit them onto the cage sides, you’ve got a big problem. 

For these reasons, it may be easier on both you and your pet to opt for a square or rectangular cage. By doing so, you can provide your companion bird with a comfortable home and provide yourself with an enclosure that is easy to keep clean and well stocked with fun accessories your bird loves and needs to keep her happy. 

The best thing to keep in a round cage is a plant & not a bird 

What do they drink from?

 As I just mentioned above, I had used one of the feeder bowls for water over time I started to realise that this maybe wasn't the most  hygienic way for them to be drinking, I was constantly changing there water every few hours, due to poop getting into their bowl YUCK & food, so I did some  research on water bottles, hamster water bottle, there are many benefits of using water bottles instead of cups/bowls, it is a great way to provide your bird with clean, fresh water all day long, even tho it's absolutely normal for your bird to want to dunk its food in its water bowl, but those bits and pieces of food that remain in water create the ideal breeding ground for bacteria, a water bottle can be the solution to this "drinking problem." 

Plastic bottles are fine for smaller birds. 

It’s a popular misconception that bottles can be left without attention or refilling for days at a time. In truth, water bottles should be cleaned every day, just like any other cup or dish, because bacteria can 

begin to grow after 24 hours. At least once a day, you will want to reach in the cage and give the ball in the tube a tap to make sure everything is working properly. This is because some birds will stuff

bits of food or seeds into the tube opening, which will either clog the tube or cause all the water will run out.

A bird that is using a water bottle for the first time should be watched closely the first few days to make sure it is actually using it. For instance, you wouldn’t want to go away for the weekend without being absolutely sure your bird knows how to drink from the bottle, or without knowing if your bird is one of the ones that clogs the tip. Some learn to use the bottle 

immediately, and some may take a little training. In the meantime, continue to offer a water dish a 

few times a day to be sure your bird is getting the hydration it needs.

Okay so this is the type of bottle Bella & Bert now use, I was worried at first that they wouldn't drink from it, but they did pretty much straight away, Bert was the first to test drive the new bottle and he got it straight away now that's intelligence right there, Bella followed shortly after and she also got the hang of it straight away so it was a massive  success with my two, not every bird will get it straight away and will need a little training as I  previously mentioned. 

Selecting the Right Perch for your Pet Bird

Selecting the right Perch for your Pet Bird is important

because Birds spend a lot of time sitting on their Perches.

When not flying, basically anything a pet bird stands on

can be considered a perch. Perches also give birds something

to chew on, something to rub and groom their beaks on, and

a safe haven to view their world from.

How to Select a Perch for Your Bird

Consider: safety, variety and how well the perch will hold  up under use.

A different variety of sizes are important in helping keep

a pet bird's feet exercised and healthy. It is not healthy for 

a bird's feet to be constantly clutched in the same position, 

which will happen if he is using perches of only one size or 

shape. 

A perch that can be totally encircled by a bird's foot so 

that his toes overlap is too small. A bird should be able

to get his foot at least three-quarters of the way around the

perch. 

Birds have a tendency to chew on their perches, so make sure

the perch isn't too soft to be easily destroyed. If a bird

is being chewed up and becoming worn, replace the perch 

before tweety swallows some of the perch material.

Types of perches

1. Plastic perches

Plastic Perches come in acrylic and PVC, both are

easy to clean and sturdy, Acrylic perches are hard to destroy,

PVC can be chewed and swallowed, definitely not a good

thing.

Plastic perches can be slippery and uncomfortable and plastic

is not a natural type of perch which may cause some foot problems.

Plastic perches are a big no no no!!! For me they don't seem safe nor wide enough for the birds feet, definitely don't look comfortable.

2. Wooden perches

Wood perches most closely follow what a bird would perch

on in the wild. Wood perches can be purchased already made,

in a variety of sizes and complete with hangers.

If you have access to willow, birch or fruit trees, branches

from these trees make ideal perches. They come in all sizes

and interesting shapes and won't cost a penny. It's a good

idea to have several natural perches for your birds and

change them from time to time in the cage. This helps the

bird exercise it's feet and relieves some boredom.

Remember: Do Not use branches from trees that have been

sprayed with any kind of insecticide or pesticide!

Do not use branches from trees or any other plant that may 

be poisonous to birds.

3. Mineral perches

Mineral perches are also called concrete or cement perches. For 

They helpful in wearing down the nails and beaks of birds, 

preventing them from becoming overgrown. These perches 

are also comfortable and relatively indestructible. They come 

in a variety of shapes, materials and combinations of materials.

Almost every bird should have one mineral perch.

4. Sandpaper perches

The use of sandpaper perches in not recommended. The sand on

them may cut a bird's feet or cause other feet problems. They

provide no real benefit.

This one is a big no no no!!!

5. Rope perches

Most birds like to sit on rope perches. It has a good feel

for their legs and feet and provides a solid footing for them,

Purchase a stiff rope coil. Do not use a rope that will 

fray or be chewed easily. If the rope perch ever does become

frayed, replace it immediately. Birds can swallow bits of

rope and even get their claws stuck in a fray.

Rope perches are a big hit for my two, you can get different sizes, bend them in all kinds of directions, all great for your birds little feet.

Helpful Hints on Perches

* It's a good idea to have several perches of different sizes

   and shapes.

* Place the perches on several levels, horizontal and vertical.

* Don't put perches over top of feed and water bowls.

* Don't put perches directly on top of another perch.

* The smaller the cage, the more you will want the perches

   closer to the ends of the cage to provide more flying room.

other accessories for your Bird

cuttlefish bone.

Importance To Diet

Cuttlebone is provided to birds as a source of calcium and other necessary minerals. It is especially important to breeding hens.

Do Birds Need Cuttlebone?
The question remains, does my bird need cuttlebone? The answer is yes. Your bird, especially an egg-laying hen, needs calcium. Cuttlebone provides a natural, inexpensive source of calcium carbonate as well as other trace minerals,  cuttlebone is a natural product, containing no toxins or contaminants.
All birds need calcium, and cuttlebone is as good a source as any. Most of the parrots will willingly chew up a cuttlebone.

mineral block.

A mineral block is usually put into the cage to provide calcium and other minerals, with mineral blocks you can get all different shapes and colours and also flavours.

don't be worried if they don't use either of these straight away, Bella & Bert took their time to get

use to the, and now they both love cuttlefish bone and also the mineral block, they have a raspberry flavour one, just insure you put them in a visible and reachable place in their cage.

Budgie Toys.

Play Gyms

Most budgies like climbing, hanging off things, chewing threads, ringing bells and scratching their heads on things. So to increase their fun there are many types of ‘play gyms’ or ‘climbing stands’ on the market to choose from. Firstly, make sure it is one suitable for budgies. 

You can choose between colourful gyms and plain wood, usually doweling, ones. This is a matter of personal preference. Just make sure that the coloured ones do not have any toxic materials. I wouldn’t give my budgie a toy that I wouldn’t let a baby chew on.

Chewing Toys.

Chewing is a natural and necessary part of your budgies make up. They need to keep their beaks nicely trimmed, strong and agile, it also provides mental stimulation and activity while they are in their cage.

When coming into breeding condition it becomes a strong instinct for the hen to chew and she will find something to destroy regardless of whether you want her to or not, so it is best to provide something you are happy for her to chew up before she gets to your wallpaper! Even aviary birds need to chew so don't forget to provide for them too. The Hanging Vine Swing is a great toy for aviaries or your living room.
I would recommend natural products for budgie toys; wood, paper, plant materials, that will be like the things they would find in the wild. And make sure there are no dangerous chemical dyes in them! Birdie Bagels can be slipped onto a perch, or hung up for chewing. They also come in sizes big enough for you budgie to use as a swing whilst munching. A Mardi Gras toy is good for shredding and preening.

Rosewood Small Animal Activity Toy Bunny Fun Tree Boredom Breaker, I cant recommend this product enough, Bella got into a habit of picking paint of my walls and windowsill, another budgie owner suggested this product for her to destroy, its the best thing I have ever brought, it keeps her busy for ages, this tree is almost destroyed now, from all her chewing at it.
you can find this product on Amazon.



Swings.
Most budgie like to swing, and hang about, and there are many options to keep your bird entertained. Ropes to climb and swing on were always popular in my aviary and were some of my favourite budgie toys.
Some nice ones are made of sisal and can have a bell on the bottom. They will love climbing up and down and ringing the bell. There are also Triangle Swings, made of a safe rubber like material so will be an interesting contrast to what your birds feet are used to, and is feels fun to bite. And it has a disk on the bottom for biting and twisting.

And the most important point to make is; look critically at everything and try to anticipate how your bird may get injured with it, because they are masters of finding trouble to get into!

hear are a few other toys for your budgie.

Bird Mirrors.

Budgies love mirrors, plain and simple.  It gives them someone to talk to, someone that looks and sounds just like them.

 In my honest opinion, I think it is unhealthy for alone budgie to have mirrors in their home. 

Once you put that mirror in, your budgie will become addicted to it and will never want to do anything else. Yes, it seems like a nice thing to do- giving your budgie a “friend” but YOU are supposed to be your budgie’s friend.

If you ever want to have any connection with your budgie, I recommend you do not put a mirror in his/her home.  First, it is kind of wrong to do it because it’s just a reflection and you are teasing your bird into thinking it is a real, living bird who will chirp back. Second, you want your budgie to bond with you. He should want to play with you, talk with you, get on your finger, and be excited to see you.  Also, when budgie become so obsessed with their mirror, they can become aggressive and territorial, and start biting you.
If you feel your budgie is very lonely, consider getting a second bird – especially if you gone most of the time.  You can also use the mirror as a way to bond more with your bird.  Instead of leaving the mirror in there all day, take it and make your budgie come to you and then have him step up on your finger to reach it.  Let him play with it for a few minutes then put it away and continue to interact with your budgie.

Bella & Bert have a mirror, and I can honestly say that Bella doesn't even bother with it as she has her friend Bert.
Bert on the other hand likes to have a quick stop in the mirror to check him self out and have a quick chat with him self, again he doesn't do this very often, if I feel he is spending to much time in his mirror more than few minutes I will distract him away from it or Bella will do this.
there are many, many views about having mirrors' weather its okay or not okay,
personally I wouldn't recommend them for alone birds.

This is Bert having a quick chat in his Mirror.

*images, are either my own, found on google images, pets at home and amazon*

** RUSTY BIRD TOYS **

Rust is the result when oxygen comes in long-term contact and combines with certain metal elements. the result is an oxide which weakens the metals structure and strength.. water, and more specifically dampness, is even worse for most metals as the hydrogen contained reacts with certain elements to create acid which helps expose more atoms to the destructive power of oxygen. the colour of rust (weather it is orange, white or green) is actually the scorching of the metal as this reaction occurs.

The danger of rust all depends on what metal is actually rusting, and to be on the safe side all rusted metal or metal alloys (chemically combined metal element's) should be kept away from a birds nibbling.